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More forum topics Trip tips Shinkansen trains connect Tokyo station and Hiroshima (4.5hrs, ¥18,550 one-way), while overnight buses leave from Tokyo Station’s Yaesu south exit (12hrs, ¥21,200 round-trip). Hiroshima’s sites are easily negotiable by foot, but the city’s tram system connects the main JR station with the city center and beyond. Hotel 28 Hiroshima (082-247-2811) is a centrally located, functional business hotel. At ¥4,000 for a small single room, this is possibly the city’s most reasonable offering. For something more upmarket, the ANA Hotel Hiroshima (082-241-1111) offers twin rooms for ¥20,000. Some guidebooks recommend the World Friendship Center (082-503-3191), run by an anti-nuclear NPO (¥3,500/p including breakfast). The Hiroshima City Hotel and Ryokan Union can be contacted at 082-261- 0074. There are two city information desks at the JR Station and another excellent facility at the Rest House inside the Peace Park (082-247-6738). The Hiroshima Convention and Visitors Bureau: www.hiroshima-navi.or.jp The Hiroshima Interpreter and Guide Association at www.urban.ne.jp/home/higa ADVERTISERS : Flight Shop A'cross Travellers Bureau 03-5467-0077 No 1 Travel CAN Tour Four Seasons Travel 03-5907-5220 JAL Story and Beltop Travel Service Just Travel 03-3362-3441 Hit Travel TRAVEL ARCHIVE: 611: City of Sand From crowded markets to placid mosques, Cairos attractions are legion 609: On the edge Hateruma Island offers a primeval slice of sand and surf 607: Land of calm Get a glimpse of unspoiled Asia in the lush countryside of Laos 605: Just like heaven Nokogiri-yama in chiba is as appealing as Nikko or Kamakura, and just as accessible 602: Place your Bets Macau pays its respects to history while keeping a keen eye on the future 598: Bring it on Peak season can’t come soon enough for hotelsin southern Thailand 596: Rhythm City Cuba In the island nation’s largest port, the common language is music 594: City of Peace Sixty years after the infamous attack, Hiroshima is a site of remembrance 592: Big sky country Endless vistas and mysterious shrines await in rural Mongolia 590: Hidden pleasures Kyoto’s little-visited gardens justify a trip all their own 588: Another Country While maintaining its cultural distinction, the Basque homeland of Bayonne offers the best of Spain and France 586: Stepping into the past Beaches, museums—and painted ladies—await visitors in Atami and Ito 584: Getting to the Roots of Kuala Lumpur In quiet parks and bustling markets, Malaysia’s capital reveals its past and future 582: The great outdoors Shinrin Koen in Saitama offers year-round fun for space-deprived Tokyoites 580: Seoul, revisited Ancient and modern worlds collide in the Korean capital, a city of futuristic architecture, tranquil palaces and fiery cuisine 576: Ancient treasures Explore untouched 900-year-old temples in Myanmar’s Bagan region 574: The High Life Squeeze a last bit of fun out of winter in the mountains of Nagano 572: The Other Side of Cape Town Township tours offer a vibrant glimpse of daily life in South Africa 570: White day Yuzawa offers beginners a chance to ski before the snow melts 568: City of spice Take a gastronomic tour through India’s food capital 566: Life Cyclist An around-the-world biker makes a pit stop in Tokyo 564: Forest in the Clouds Rainswept trails and lush beauty await in Costa Rica's Monteverde nature preserve 561-2: Geisha for a day Kyoto's makeover studios offer visitors a new twist on tradition 559: Southern comfort Indonesia’s most vibrant village replenishes heart, mind and soul 557: Show time Nagoya is a city of potential heading into Expo 2005 555: Waterworld Float across the watery heart of Brunei’s capital, Bandar Seri Begawan 553: Mountain dew A retreat restores the senses in the highlands of Fukushima 551: Turquoise baths Warm, white sand meets an ocean of blues in a remote corner of the South Pacific 549: Sea world A grueling 25-hour boat ride ends in the idyllic island chain of Ogasawara 547: Train spotting The Trans-Siberian Railway is an epic journey that begins right at Japan’s doorstep 545: In praise of slowness Yunishigawa offers a leisurely glimpse into Japan's illustrious past 543: Block party A guide to fun on the fringe at Hong Kong’s nightlife district of Lan Kwai Fong 537: The middle way Andrew McHugh embarks on a timeless pilgrimage in Tokyo’s tranquil backyard. 533: The simple life City slicker Matthew Reiss takes a breather along Shikoku’s Shimanto River. 529: The lost world In search of an ancient civilization swallowed by the sea, Carlo Niederberger plunges into the waters off Yonaguni. 525: Nature trails Hakkakuso in Tateyama offers a jumping-off point for cycling, swimming, and the well-preserved charm of Japanese fishing villages. Steve Trautlein heads to the coast. 521: High tea Cha and music have long been Nagasaki's two great passions. Simon Rowe hops on a tram to sample the Kyushu city's delights. 517: The hill is alive Grab your coats and your wallets for a tour of the best of Osaka with local boy Simon Rowe. 513: A walk in the woods Matt Button heads to Hokkaido and revels in the serenity of Daisetsuzan National Park. 507: Time and again The history of Arima runs as deep as its hot springs. Stephen Mansfield soaks up the local ambience. 503: Riverside retreat The rustic Okayama town of Takahashi offers the casual visitor a release from the world. Stephen Mansfield enjoys the time on his hands. 499: Tropics of interest Urban escapees in search of a little anonymity are drawn to Ishigaki-jima. Simon Rowe finds out why. 495: City by the sea Once a pirate haunt, the port town of Onomichi in the Inland Sea still houses an intriguing array of temples, and a surprising number of cats and cat lovers. Stephen Mansfield goes exploring. 491: Easy streets Ocean breezes, smiling faces, exotic markets, and a laid-back pace. Catherine Pawasarat finds Japanese-style relaxation on the shores of the Noto Peninsula. 487: Into the wild John McGee plumbs the depths and scales the heights of Tohoku's grandest national park. 483: Green Peace Home to Kyoto-style gardens and the Peace Museum for kamikaze, Chiran offers a healthy dose of history and culture. Stephen Mansfield takes a walk. 479: Walk in the woods Take a step back in time with a leisurely stroll through the forests and towns of the Kiso Valley. Mary King sets the pace. 475: Pilgrim’s progress Simon Rowe braves the storms and heads down to Shikoku’s “Typhoon Ginza,” Cape Ashizuri. 471: Companions of the sea Life in the Seto Inland Sea town of Tomo-no-Ura revolves around its fishing industry. Stephen Mansfield experiences the salty charm. 467: Monuments to history Once a refuge from wars, Yamaguchi has survived the blight of modern urban development, Stephen Mansfield observes. 463: Land of the giants Simon Rowe goes hiking on Yakushima Island, home to tropical beaches, granite hills, and the world's oldest-and largest-cedar trees. 459: Northern exposure Home to king crabs, towering snow sculptures and one of the country's biggest beer companies, Sapporo is the center of life on Hokkaido. Simon Rowe hits the city streets. 456: In from the cold Simon Rowe and Masami Hamada fight off the winter chill in the warm waters of Kinosaki 452: Keeping the peace David Capel visits the quiet hamlet of Matsumoto, home to Japan's oldest existing castle. 448: Past into present Stephen Mansfield takes the road less traveled and turns up in the historic samurai homestead of Obi 444: Chariots of ire The annual Nada Fighting Festival 440: Hook, line and sinker Summertime and the fishin' is easy-in Ichikawa village 436: Peaks and valleys Stephen Mansfield ventures into the picturesque calderas of Kyushu's Aso-Kuju National Park 432: Water's edge Seto Inland Sea the place for epicures and adventurers 428: Block party Renowned for its legendary temples and manicured gardens, Kyoto is one of Japan's top tourist destinations 424: Honshu's holy hotels Simon Rowe seeks serenity and a satisfying meal alongside the monks of Koya-san 420: High Art Since its opening five years ago, a reclusive sect's stunning museum has attracted wide international acclaim. 416: Fire and brimstone Hot water and Japanese hell come together in Oita Prefecture 412: Snowed in Finding peace and a warm bath in the mountains of Gunma 408: Edo elegance Old world artisans keep tradition alive in Honshu's Kurashiki 401: Bird's eye view Mary King mingles with the ghosts of Himeji Castle. 397: It takes a village Feed your spirits in Honshu's seaside town, Amanohashidate 393: Bathing Apes For a scenic dip with rare, furry primates and ready to primp for your pictures, head to Jigokudani Onsen. Mary King gets in to hot water. 389: God speed The mother of all Shinto temples, Ise Grand Shrine 385: Hattoji Highland hamlet 380: Nagasaki Remembrance of things past 378: Kawagoe From modern Tokyo to "Little Edo" 376: Tottori Tottori's stunning landscapes 375: Kyushu Bed and bath under the volcano 373: Ryogoku Land of the giants 372: Osaka Universal Studios Japan 371: Osaka Amerika-mura: Osaka's funky town 369: Mie Mikimoto Pearl Island 368: Takarazuka Hyogo-ken's all women theater group 365: Kawasaki Kawasaki's annual fertility festival 364: Aomori A day on Fear Mountain 362: Nagano Chill out snowboarding 361: Asuka One foot in the grave 356: Yamanashi Hakushu's hidden treasures 355: Waseda Tram Trip A streetcar named... 352/3: Aomori Jesus in Japan 351: Kumamoto Under the volcano in Kyushu 350: Sado Island Explore the forgotten charms of Shukunegi ISSUES 348- ISSUES 298- By Rob Gilhooly City of Peace Sixty years after the infamous attack, Hiroshima is a site of remembrance Photos by Rob Gilhooly There are things we put off: things that are difficult to tackle, troublesome, or unsavory. For 15 years since first coming to Japan, I have put off visiting Hiroshima. Having seen other examples of the terrors of war—Ho Chi Minh’s War Remnants Museum (in those days less ambiguously named the American War Atrocities Museum), for example—I decided Hiroshima could wait. This year, however, marks the 60th anniversary of the bombing, a suitable time, I thought, to stop putting it off and confront the world’s most damning testimony against nuclear warfare. For two days I roamed the city’s broad boulevards and narrow alleyways, crossing the many bridges that link several islands formed by rivers snaking through the city’s heart—a striking geographical feature that helped seal Hiroshima’s fate. For the most part, Hiroshima today is a succinct example of how Japan rose from the ashes of war and rebuilt itself to become the economic power it is today. There’s a bustling business zone, ubiquitous nighttime neon and a bubbly soapland district. Red-faced business-folk tumble out of eateries serving okonomiyaki, the savory pancake that locals will tell you is Hiroshima’s contribution to world cuisine, while a few hundred die-hard fans cheer on the local baseball team, the Hiroshima Carp, doing overtime battle with the Yokohama Bay Stars. Yet, there are ample reminders of that tragic morning in 1945 when the Enola Gay off-loaded the “Little Boy” bomb and blew what was then a little-known provincial city straight onto the map of global consciousness. At the entranceway to Fukuro-machi Elementary School, which was recently turned into a museum, an enlarged panoramic photo—the first to be snapped after the bombing—reveals the scale of the destruction. The city, quite simply, is desolate. Inside the school, messages penned on the stairwell by desperate survivors appealing for information about missing relatives are testimony to the anguish they suffered. The authors have been traced, and their heart-wrenching stories imaginatively documented. Across the river, at the city’s main museum, there are copious more reminders of individual tragedies: charred lunchboxes, ripped school uniforms, melted bottles, a step from the entrance of the Bank of Japan, blackened where a vaporized blast victim had been sitting. There’s nothing on the shock scale of Ho Chi Minh’s museum here—no pickled Agent Orange specimen or images of torture and execution—but enough to turn stomachs of those not yet desensitized by “Nuke the f***ers”-style Hollywood flicks or Al Jazeera-style churn-alism. From the second floor, a long glass-fronted corridor affords a panoramic view across the city’s Peace Park and the nearby cenotaph. Under this memorial—a graceful arc of granite that frames the nearby Peace Flame—a chamber houses tomes listing the names of the 230,000-plus victims, many of whom died from radiation-related illnesses. Here I chat at length with Yuriko Anno, 79, who visits weekly from Ninoshima, a nearby island where thousands of hibakusha, as the A-bomb victims are known, are buried, to pray for relatives and friends who perished. Anno survived because she was transporting family belongings to a new home some 30km away when the bomb was detonated. Like many of Hiroshima’s peace proponents, she expresses bitterness over Japan’s continued endeavors in nuclear power development and recent conflicts in which her country has been involved as “peacekeepers.” “Someone once said, ‘The only thing we have learned from history is that we never learn from history,’” she remarks. “Anyone who believes in war as a solution to anything should come right here.” By now we have meandered through the Peace Park, past the Flame of Peace and the Children’s Peace Monument, where a group of school kids are solemnly chanting prayer and draping countless rows of colorful paper cranes in deference to Hiroshima’s most famous child, Sadako Sasaki—the leukemia victim of “1,000 Cranes” fame. We come to a halt by the Hiroshima Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall, which under rather different circumstances would likely have been replaced by a searing shiny structure housing collars and ties. Yet this is the original Ground Zero, now a World Heritage Site and the symbol for which the city is known worldwide. More commonly known as the A-Bomb Dome, it is the only remaining physical evidence of the attack. Its burnt and mangled shell serves as a chilling reminder of the A-bomb’s destructive force. As Anno continues her tale—of how her sister was killed instantly in the grounds of her school—I try to imagine the sight of a 1 million Centigrade force capable of buckling a meter-think iron girder, of wiping out an entire city in a micro-second or imprinting a human shadow on stone. I can’t. So I turn to the only item of comfort at hand, face the music and press the shutter. Would you like to comment on this article? Send a letter to the editor at letters@metropolis.co.jp . Discuss travel with METROPOLIS readers at http://forum.japantoday.com top

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